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Fixing Skylight Flashing in Florida: Stop Water Before It Drips 🌤️
Skylights brighten your home with natural sunshine but can be prone to leaks—especially if flashing is subpar or damaged. In Florida, where rain can batter your roof from every angle, even tiny flashing gaps around a skylight can let water sneak into your attic. This blog explains how to spot flashing failures, replace or reseal the metal pieces, and ensure long-term waterproofing. From checking the connection between skylight and shingles to selecting sealants that endure Florida’s UV and humidity, we’ll walk you through preserving that beautiful overhead light without the threat of water stains on your ceiling.
Common Skylight Flashing Issues in Florida
High humidity, intense UV rays, and driving rain test every inch of skylight flashing. Frequent issues include:
- Corroded Metal: Salt-laden air near coasts accelerates rust. Over time, flashing can develop pinholes where water slips through.
- Lifted or Cracked Sealant: The caulk or adhesive that bonds flashing to the skylight curb can dry out or crack under Florida’s sun, leaving a path for wind-driven rain.
- Poor Overlap with Shingles: If the step flashing doesn’t weave properly with each shingle course, water can back up and infiltrate.
- Debris Blockages: Leaves or pine needles might accumulate around skylight edges, trapping moisture. This fosters rust or rot in the flashing’s underside.
Because Florida storms can last for hours, even a small gap can lead to a steady drip that soaks insulation or stains drywall. Inspecting skylight flashing regularly—especially after hurricane-force gusts—lets you catch corrosion or sealant breakdown before major leaks form. A robust flashing job is the critical barrier between your skylight’s glass and the saturated environment outside.
Removing & Replacing Damaged Flashing
If you find a persistent leak or badly corroded metal:
Expose the Skylight Perimeter:
Carefully lift shingles or tiles around the skylight. Avoid tearing or cracking them in the process. For tile, you may need to remove a few pieces to reveal the flashing underneath.
Detach Old Flashing:
Pry out nails or screws anchoring the flashing to the skylight curb and roof deck. If it’s heavily rusted, pieces might crumble, so wear gloves and go slow to avoid slicing your hands on sharp edges.
Check Deck & Curb Condition:
Inspect the wood curb or roof decking for rot or dampness. If found, replace or patch these areas before installing new flashing.
Install New Step & Counter-Flashing:
Skylights typically require step flashing that integrates with each shingle course, plus counter-flashing that sits over the step flashing, sealing against the curb. Ensure each piece overlaps correctly to direct water downslope.
Nail & Seal Properly:
Use corrosion-resistant nails, embedding them in solid decking or curb material. Apply a roofing-grade sealant (butyl or polyurethane) around edges. Avoid generic silicone in Florida’s UV-laden climate; it can degrade faster.
Once the new flashing is in place, re-lay the shingles or tiles so water flows naturally over each metal layer. A quick water test or waiting for the next afternoon thunderstorm can confirm everything’s watertight. Properly installed flashing often outlasts the skylight itself, preventing infiltration for years.
Sealing & Transition Strips
Flashing alone doesn’t always suffice; transition strips or specialized sealants often form the final watertight barrier:
- Butyl Tape Under Flashing Edges: A strip of butyl or rubberized tape beneath the flashing edge can bolster adhesion, especially on older or uneven roof surfaces.
- Self-Adhering Membrane: Some roofers use peel-and-stick membranes around skylight perimeters before laying metal flashing. This “sacrificial” layer ensures no water seeps past minor flashing gaps.
- Quality Sealants: Spread a thin bead where flashing meets the skylight curb or the top overlap of step flashing. Press it in with a fingertip or a plastic tool for smooth coverage.
- Ventilation Considerations: If your skylight is vented, ensure no sealant blocks air flow or drainage channels. Some Florida skylights feature built-in weep holes that must remain open to release condensation.
A layered approach—membrane + metal + sealant—gives your skylight the best shot at resisting Florida’s torrential rains. Just be cautious not to rely solely on caulk for bridging big gaps. If the metal alignment is flawed, reconfiguring the flashing itself is a must, with sealant acting as the finishing protective measure, not the main patch solution.
Ongoing Maintenance & Inspections
Once your skylight’s flashing is replaced or re-sealed:
- Check Annually: Inspect flashing edges for lifted corners or rust streaks. Gently remove any leaves or debris lodged around the skylight curb.
- Clean Skylight Glass: Dirt or algae can hide minor cracks in the curb or edges. A clear view helps you notice small leaks or flashing issues.
- Verify Sealant Integrity: Sealant lines can shrink or peel in Florida’s UV. Re-apply a thin bead if you see gaps forming.
- Attic Watch: Inspect the attic ceiling or rafters near the skylight after heavy storms. Any fresh water stains or drips suggest flashing trouble or a curb crack.
Staying vigilant—especially after hurricane season—prevents tiny flashing failures from evolving into major water damage. A quick re-seal or nail tighten can fix problems early, extending the skylight’s service life and ensuring your overhead window to Florida’s sunny skies remains leak-free.
Coordinating Skylight & Roof Replacements
If your entire roof is nearing replacement, consider upgrading your skylight (or at least its flashing) in the same project:
- Seamless Integration: It’s easier to weave step flashing with fresh underlayment and shingles than patch around an existing skylight.
- Better Skylight Models: Modern skylights boast improved frames, double-pane glass, and built-in flashing kits that are often hurricane-rated—ideal for Florida’s storms.
- Reduced Labor Costs: Installing or refitting a skylight while the roof is exposed typically costs less than tackling it as a separate job later.
Many Florida homeowners find that new roof + new skylight means years of worry-free performance, especially if they choose advanced underlayment or integrated flashing systems. If your skylight is older or shows signs of rusted flashing, lumps of caulk, or persistent leaks, pairing it with a roof replacement might be the simplest route to long-term dryness and clarity overhead.
Conclusion
🌤️ Skylight leaks often boil down to flawed flashing—especially in Florida’s climate of forceful winds and pounding rain. By removing corroded metal, layering in proper step/counter-flashing, and sealing edges with durable roofing-grade products, you block water from sneaking in around the skylight’s perimeter. Regular checks catch small rust spots or sealant failures before they escalate, saving you from moldy insulation or stained drywall. If you’re planning a full roof upgrade, it’s the perfect time to refit or replace the skylight too. Done correctly, your skylight continues to flood your home with natural light, not rainwater, no matter the storm outside.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
🌤️ Fix Skylight Flashing & Say Goodbye to Leaks!
Skylights should bring light, not water! Learn how to repair flashing, seal edges, and protect your Florida home from roof leaks and storm damage.
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